When i first started Novus Swell, Brueggemann family gave me a congrats card with this in it. We still didn't know each other as well as we do today but they have been supporting what i do since the day one.
even now when i doubt myself about what i'm doing and if it's any good, i take out this card. yeah what it says on the card is great but it's more than that... that there were people like Brueggemann family who believed in me in the beginning and they continue to support my effort today.
I just want to say thank you to everyone who's been supporting my effort, specially the Bruggemann ohana. Thanks guys!
Karl, Michelle, and their daughter Nicole (aka: my bodyguard!). their sons Devin was still surfing and Jordan didn't want to be in the photo cuz he's a teenager. ha ha.
So did you get to surf today? well, if you didn't, you missed out! well, it wasn't that good in the morning but in the afternoon, the condition cleaned up and it was super fun!
of course i went SURFING in the morning when it wasn't that good and decided to shoot photos in the afternoon. aaahhhh so nice to be a surf photog, can't surf when it's good! ha ha.
Derek Wong ready to paddle out! i didn't connect with him today tho... sorry Derek, no photos for you today.
Kyle Aukai's been surfing with us for a while now but this was the first time me shooting him. i guess i was supposed to tell him to surf like if i weren't there. ha ha.
One of the original Kewalos groms (well, he's an grown up now. ha ha). He was making sure all the new groms know why he dominates this break. so kids, if you see Kapu paddling for a wave, you better not even think about going on the same wave as him!
i mean who does a turn like this on good size wave like we had today? Kapu is the man!
i mean who does a turn like this on good size wave like we had today? Kapu is the man!Seth Moniz has been earning his spot on the lineup. He still can't sit as far out as Kapu but Seth is getting there. he's one of the smart ones who's been respectful to the uncles in the lineup, surfing inside and moving little bit more outside every year.
the result... now he can catch waves like this at Kewalos and all the uncles got his back!
This kid (sorry i don't know your name yet.) has been coming out and surfing the inside break improving his surfing skills hoping one of the uncles to call him to sit outside one day. he's improved a lot since the first day he started coming here.
Keanu Ikalani has been steadily proving himself too. he got this nice nugg today... Keanu, pull in the barrel!!! ha ha.
Noa Mizuno is down to do anything i tell him. after seeing Keanu's wave i told Noa to start pulling in the barrel. well, he was going for it after that!
BUT... he still can't sit as far out as some other guys so i was little too far out to get him in the barrel. sorry Noa, next time i'll get a barrel shots of you!
BUT... he still can't sit as far out as some other guys so i was little too far out to get him in the barrel. sorry Noa, next time i'll get a barrel shots of you!Since i talked little about where everyone sits at Kewalos, let me point out some stuff really quick. Kewalos is one of the few spots in town with pretty strong localism. There are uncles who's been surfing there for years even before the paved parking lot.
the uncles sits outside and once they are paddling for waves, nobody paddles for those waves. Even when you think they aren't going to catch it, don't even try to paddle for them.
next there are guys in their 30-40s who's been accepted by the uncles and Kapu, Zeke, and Derek. they paddle battle each other for waves but try not to get involve in that cuz they can get pretty upset!
after that, Josh, Seth and other kids and guys.
AND finally new kids and adults inside Josh and Seth guys.
There's been lot of random people coming to Kewalos and sitting outside with the uncles or with Kapu and them. DON'T DO IT. either you won't catch any waves or people are just going to drop in on you. and if you drop in on some of the guys out there, they WILL run you over. you'll have better time sitting inside or going somewhere else.
i know it sounds kindda nuts this hierarchy in town but that's how it's been and how it will be.
if you are new to a break (any break), just take your time and watch for a while. you'll see what's going on and who are the locals and dominate the break. if you respect them and surf within their rules, one day one of the uncle's going to tell you "come sit outside more".
be safe out there, you want to get pounded by the waves and not some uncles. ha ha.
more swell's on the way, see you in the water!
Kaz
No comments:
Post a Comment