Novus Swell Webisodes!

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Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Is our government on crack?? oh and JrPro at Sunset Tomorrow!

ok so i guess Senate is to vote on bailout plan with added tax cut on wednesday.

this is really confusing me????!?!?!!?! so they voted against the bailout bill on monday and now they just added tax cut bill it was REJECTED before on top of it.

so they just put 2 REJECTED bills together and calling it a new bill?? if this thing pass, i'll be super pissed off!!

what the hell we gotta do to kill these non sense bills that makes rich richer using OUR money?

if you have an answer let me know. please!!

oh yeah and there's a Billabong JrPro contest tomorrow at Sunset! i know there are some waves up there so it should be fun! see you all there!

Monday, September 29, 2008

House Rejects Bailout Package!

awesome! house rejected the bailout package!! i guess there are decent people still left in our government!

according to USA Today/Gallup, just 22% of the sample was FOR the bill and 56% was against it! i love election year! everyone in the washington is looking after their own backs so they can get re-elected. this is pretty much the only time they listen to us people.

it was sooo scary cuz the last time a bill was presented by bush and voted this fast we ended up with Patriot Act! i believe it was voted on monday too. they made bunch of changes to the bill over the weekend and did not give anyone in house of congress enough time to go over all the changes. because of this crazy bill we lost our privacy. the government can spy on us whenever they feel like. not for just terrorist reasons but for any reasons.

i guess they are gonna try to come out with another "bailout pakage" on thursday. shiiiiiit, when is this bull shit's gonna end!!

well, i guess for now we are back to "normal" just spending $400 million a day on war on iraq to make rich richer. ha ha

Got to surf today!!

since i passed out when i got home from the Paparazzi event last night, i woke up around 5am and went over the photos. after i was done with all the "work" stuff i drove down to the beach to see if there are any waves to surf.

first i stopped at bowls area. it was super packed!! i guess there was some paddling race or something going on. no much waves tho...

here's kahea and makana. they are at bowls every weekend with their families. they surf, hangout, surf again and hangout again til dark. they are super funny and entertaining girls. well, when they aren't just sitting around like this... ha ha (didn't bring my camera with me so i had to take all the photos with my camera phone)

too many people everywhere and not much waves so i left bowls to check out kewalos.

look who i ran into at kewalos! alyssa got her own car now so she's been working a lot to earn her gas money. she finally got to surf today and lucky her kewalos was going off!

alyssa and alessa chilling by alyssa's car!

man, alyssa must be sooo stoked. i remember my first car, honda civic hatchback, i bought it off my parents. i started working washing dishes everynight at a small restraunt when i was 14 or 15 so i can save and buy that car. it was awesome! i used to wipe that thing clean every morning before school.

look who else were there.

sister and alisha.

sister was in california for a contest, roxy pro, about a week ago and she did really well. she made it to quarter finals!

like i said before, kewalos was going off!! so i got ready and surfed for a couple hours but i was sirfing like sh!t today... my legs were so sore from yesterday i was having hard time turning. also all the girl rippers out there, they were making me look really bad...

had a great day today. finished work early, got to see all the kids i haven't seen in a while, and got to surf some great waves!!

Sunday, September 28, 2008

BayVI and Local Motion Paparazzi Event!

BayVI and Local Motion's Paparazzi event was awesome! since it wasn't a contest where judges were scoring each ride everyone was more relaxed and it was more like free surfing and having fun.

i was out there all day and my legs are soooo tired... the current out at kaisers was kicking my ass! the whole time (about 5 hours) i was out there, i was kicking the whole time to stay in position.

i wanted to write a blog yesterday but i passed out as soon as i got home... ha ha

here are some shots from the contest!

carissa moore, fins out! too bad there were so much water on this shot... still sick tho.

kaoli kahokuloa doing backside shuvit.

i keep forgetting his name... sorry... he was ripping, busting nice airs on weak 1 foot waves.

after a lunch break, it was time for BayVI riders to go out there and have a session of their own.

here's the owner of BayVI, Ron Peterson. i'm glad he got to surf for a change. he's always so busy he doesn't get enough water time.

it was a great event! since it was the first time holding this event at kaisers there were some gliches but i think ron and i figured out what worked and what didn't and what needs to get done. so it's gonna be even better the next time for sure!! i want to thank everyone who showed up and hope to see you all again next year!!

Friday, September 26, 2008

BayVI Paparazzi Tomorrow and Who Wants to Make Over $13million in 3 Weeks?

tomorrow is BayVI and Local Motion's Paparazzi event!

this thing's gonna be fun!! not a contest, it's a cool event where 6 people go out and surf kaisers for 20min. and photogs will be out there shooting photos. everyone gets one photo of them along with some cool stuff. the best shot will be use on local motion 2 page ad in heavywater magazine! i'll be out there shooting the whole time so i'll update you tomorrow night!

ok, so the u.s. economy's super shitty right now. i was reading up on all kinds of stuff. time like this, you find out the truth about our government. you know they teach you in school how our governement kicks ass and it's all about the people and shit. bull shit! rich people don't care about the economy, they are still getting richer!

$700 billion bail out!?!? so our "kick ass" government is working on this crazy $700 billion bail out for our country! sounds great right?? who's gonna benefit from this? me? you? f@ck no!! the riches do. they are gonna bail out corporations who f@cked up so all the rich people who "manage" these corporations can get their multi million dollar salaries while laying off hard working "poor" workers! who's gonna pay for all this? us regular people through taxes!

how nice is that! more they f@cked up the better. run their corporations down to the ground and the governement will take care of them with YOUR money!

i guess say goodbye to better public education, universal health care, and other things that really matter to us "poor" people.

who wants to make over $13 MILLION working for just 3 weeks??

i'm sure you've heard about Washington Mutual (wamu) was shut down by the government and was bought by JP Morgan for super discounted price.
so if you owned any stocks of wamu, you are shit out of luck. ok, so who benefited from all this?

Alan H. Fishman!! he was the new ceo of wamu, hired 3 weeks ago. he got $7.5 million sign up bonus and he'll be most likely receiving $6 million in cash severance when he gets "fired"!

who else? Kerry Killinger!! a former ceo of wamu. he did such a shitty job with wamu, he was let go but left with more than $14 million in his pocket!

i bet these guys are laughing sipping on pina calada somewhere vacationing! if you see them here in hawaii, go kick their asses!! ha ha

i'm sorry if i bored you... i'll stop now cuz if i don't, i can write about these things forever!!

if you want to read a book about our federal reserve system, the world banking system, etc. and how it's really created for the riches, check out "The Creature from Jekyll Island" by G. Edward Griffin!!

i've read this book and was tripping out about it but it didn't really hit me until recently with this bad economy and talk of bail out and all.

it's a looooong ass book but it's worth reading it. i just googled the title and i found this for people who aren't into reading. it's basically a summery of the book predentation by the auther.

if you want to know some shady shit about what "corporation" is all about, check out "The Corporation" by Joel Bakan

if you hate reading you can watch "The Corporation" you can get it on Netflix if you have a membership or i'm sure there are on youtube or something.

there are lot more great books out there but i felt these two got some good information so start from these if you feel like reading.

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Adrian Buchan wins beating Kelly Slater!!

Adrian Buchan wins Quiksilver Pro France beating Kelly Slater. i guess kelly has to wait til the next stop, Mundaka to make it official.

adrian was surfing solid the whole contest and he deserved this win.

now i need to get some sleep, it's past 5am already...

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Quiksilver Pro France

we got no waves to speak of over here. i've been doing paperwork and organizing photos and staying up late watching Quiksilver Pro France.

yesterday's heats were pretty sick, thought kelly might go down but won the heat with less than a minute to spare.

battle of rookies, jordy vs dane, was the most exciting heat to watch. they were doing some sick airs like they were free surfing. dane won that one.

taj just went down (4th round) so if kelly wins the event, kelly will be the world champ for the 9th time!! we'll see what happens tonight. i'm ready to stay up late to watch this!!

Sunday, September 21, 2008

NEON Party!

neon party was last night at pipeline cafe.

this was the first heavywater party i didn't have to work and take pictures. all i had to do was show up and party! once again, there were tons of people and another awesome party. great job Jcut!

mari sent me some photos from last night so here there are!

with the ladies!

yes, my in4mation g-shock. mari really wanted to steal it from me...
i have no idea what's going on with this photo... why is sachi laughing in the background???

i don't even know what time i got home... had little too much to drink... again... ha ha

thanks makoto for picking me up from my house and sachi for driving my drunk ass home!

Monday, September 15, 2008

Busy, Busy, Busy!!

"Surfing Lani" crew was filming me on friday. they came over to my house to shoot me working on my photos and interviewed me on some stuff. i had to clean my place in a few hours and my place was a mess! i ended up throwing bunch of stuff in the bathroom and just closed the door. ha ha. i haven't been using japanese in a while so i don't even remember what i said on the interview... shiiiiit.

after filming at home we went to the beach to film me surfing. yes, surfing... they are doing stories on bunch of super good surfers and here i was. hope they can make me look good... well, at least not too stupid.

here are couple of shots from the other day when they were filming me shooting.
chihara-san! (aka harry)

on friday when we went to shoot, it started raining HARD!! poor chihara-san stood there getting all soaking wet while trying to keep the camera dry.

here's jisai-san!

i like going front side (rights) so he had to sit where it was super sallow to get some footage... thanks guys!

i also want to thank darren tatsuno for nice board to ride, 88tees for providing me with cool shirts to wear, RVCA for awesome trunks and shirt to wear while surfing, and Sanbon gear for sick slippers!! man, you guys are making me feel like if i were sponsored! ha ha thanks guys!

this weekend i pretty much worked all weekend helping out BayVI guys. they are having a paparazzi surf event on sept. 29th with local motion. cool event! you get to surf kaisers with only few other people and photogs (including me) will be out there shooting photos! the best shot will be use on BayVI's ads! how cool is that?!?!
so i was helping them making store displays and delivering them to local motion stores. so everyone, go to your nearest local motion store and buy some BayVI stuff and sign up for the event! they are giving out some stuff with a purchse and there are only limited slots for the event!

oh yeah, and what the f*ck is going on with all the sharks all over the island?!?!
no, i didn't take this shot! you crazy?? i'd be swimming for my life if i get this close to one of these tiger sharks!

-there was a shark attack in couching lion on the east side (hope todd gets better soon and without any lasting effect from his shark attack.)

-shark sighting in north shore around lani and chuns

-a guy's board got attacked and bit a shark in town by straight out

-multiple shark sightings (jumping out of the water kind of sightings) out side of waikiki

-and today 13ft tiger shark sighting at bowls while i was surfing...

really, what is going on?? i know they are out there and we are playing in their house but i hope this is it and no more attacks!

oh and one more thing! Hawaiian South Shore is having it's 2nd annual Blood Drive on Oct. 11. please sign up and donate some blood. you need to be signed up by end of this month for this event.
Sponsored by
surfers for life

blood bank of hawaii says, one donor can save up to 3 people. that's awesome, i can save 3 lives and i don't even have to go to school for 7 more years to be a doctor!! this might be the easiest way to save lives!

go to this site to sign up!

any questions about donating blood? here's blood bank of hawaii faq section.

even if you can't make it to the event, please try to donate. you can schedule an appointment on blood bank of hawaii website. if you want me to be there to hold your hand call me up. ha ha

i hate needles but i'm gonna go sign up. i think they give you some cookies afterwards, right? can i request a hot girl for the whole donation process?? ha ha

Thursday, September 11, 2008


i woke up early to meet up with gavin hasegawa to shoot. a japanese tv crew from "surfing lani" were there too and i thought i was just there to shoot photos of gavin. after talking to everyone i found out they want to do a story on me! i'm super stoked.

they are already doing a story on gavin and they just happened to check out my website to see gavin's shots i took from last weekend. gavin told the guys that they should do a story on me and here i was hanging out with them.

so this morning was them shooting gavin surfing and shooting me shooting. i'm super stoked!

time to shoot!

waves got lot smaller but still fun looking. gavin was ripping out there.

after the shoot we stopped by 88tees where gavin does business with and they hooked me up with some stuff. 88tees is the place to go if you are looking for cool stuff for sure. check them out if you are in waikiki! now i am super super stoked!! thanks gavin and 88tees!

i found out "surfing lani" is doing a story on alyssa wooten too. sweet! now i am super super super stoked!! so after they filmed her on land, we went to kewalos to get some of her surfing footage. they needed more footage of me shooting so i jumped in the water to shoot again.

alessa quizon came out and this was her first wave. i'll be shocked if she doesn't become a world champ one day. she rips!!

cody came out and he was showing off his in4mation g-shock i really want. remember the watch i bet my car for? shiiiiiit...

i'm so used to being behind my camera, it was weird being infront of one. i didn't know what to do or say... hope they can make me look decent... ha ha

alyssa's turn. she's a pro at this she looked really comfortable when they were filming, not like me...

super long day already at this point so i'm going home!

when i got home there was a package on my doorstep. i wasn't expecting anything so i had no clue what it was. it was from my buddy michael kawada in cali. i've known him for almost 20 years! i opened the box and i found this inside!

my own in4mation g-shock watch!! they only made 500 of these and i couldn't find it anywhere! somehow michael found it and bought it for me. now i am SUPER SUPER SUPER SUPER STOKED!! thanks michael!

what an amazing day. i thought it was going to be just another normal day but i was wrong. did i tell you i'm STOKED?!?!?

i'm so fortunate how i'm surrounded by great people! thanks everyone!

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Chill Day

chill day today. i woke up and went surfing again since today was between swells. SSW swell's fading and SSE swell's showing up. supposed to peak tomorrow so i'll be out shooting tomorrow.

the waves were super fun! not as big as past few days but still fun. i only usually surf crappy waves when waves aren't good enough to shoot so it was a treat for me! the new board is working great!

this is my friend gerritt with his broken board... i saw lot of people with broken boards this weekend and he was one of them. well, i guess it's a great excuse to get a new board, right? i bet he ordered one already. ha ha

i'm meeting up with gavin hasegawa to shoot tomorrow. i think there's gonna be a japanese tv crew with him so i'll give you an update tomorrow!

Darren's Daughter Nami and Ace Cool

went to waikiki to shoot darren tatsuno's daughter, nami, yesterday. waves were little rough for her but she did really well.

watch her go!

i was so tired after shooting, i just passed out when i got home. i woke up at 2am nice and refreshed! got on my computer and started working. super busy time of the month. everything's due for heavywater. on top of that, darren's leaving to japan in a few days so i had to put all the photos for him to take to japan with him.

when i was done with everything it was 645am. i figured i should take a break and go try out my brand new board! there were some nice size waves still and the board was AWESOME!! love the new board. thanks darren!! now everyone go buy his boards! ha ha

after a nice long surf session i met up with alec cooke (aka. ace cool). ace is a well known big wave rider and he is swimming around the island of oahu in 10 days to collect water samples and trying to increase awareness about the water quality here in hawaii. check him out at and

here's ace and his crew

the map. man, i can't believe he's gonna swim all that...

he's swimming more than 10 miles a day. it must be crazy out there specially with the swell we are having. good luck ace!!

so yesterday, alyssa and i were walking to the beach after parking my car and ran into this guy in a funky costume. he was promoting a japanese wrestling event. the costume was so out there i had to take a picture of him with alyssa. you never know what/who you are gonna run into in waikiki! ha ha

alright, i am super tired now. time to get some sleep! see ya tomorrow!

Sunday, September 7, 2008

A Photo Session at Queens with the Girls

picked up alyssa and alisha and we are off to queens to shoot today. got super lucky and got a parking really close to the beach. only had to walk a block. lucky us!

alyssa found a personal board caddy. ha ha

alessa and sister met up with us there.

man, these young cute girls can surf!




it's always fun surfing with your buddies.

alessa and sister jumped in my car with us and off to rainbows inn for a quick lunch. i love this place! perfect food after a nice surf session!

so what happens when 4 teenage girls want to listen to different music in the car? this! climbing over each others to get to the radio...

i thought it was going to be a mellow day... boy was i wrong. these girls were laughing or singing the whole time. my ears are still ringing... ha ha