it has been a long day. Geoff & Derek Wong, Kylen Yamakawa and I woke up super early to hit up a "secret" spot for this North swell.
it was really cold this morning. so cold, i didn't want to get out of my warm bed. ha ha.
Glad i woke up tho. haven't seen a sunrise in a while.
the session at our "secret" spot was a huge FAIL. there were about 20 people out and the locals were super aggressive and were threatening me for filming the whole time. the waves were good tho, some solid double overhead waves and no wind.
i keep putting "secret" in quotations because the spot is not even hard to find but many guys think it is. ha ha.
i don't want to get beat up so i won't tell you where but it's visible from the main road and you have to paddle 20 minutes to get there unless you have a boat or lot of people take their kayaks out there. well, we are all broke so we paddled 20 minutes there and another 20 minutes back.
i think it's time for us to look for a real secret spot cuz this place is not fun anymore like how it used to be. now it's just another surf spot everyone knows about with guys who want to keep it as a "secret" spot by padding out in their BRIGHT ORANGE kayaks for the whole world to see and pissed off at people for showing up. ha ha.
in the afternoon, i picked up Jenna Forti from school (works out great since her school is just down the street from where i live) and went look for some fun waves to surf.
she got me this cool camera app on my iphone so she's been trying it out.
pretty cool app. only if Jenna can point the camera at ME more and not herself... ha ha.we picked up Joy Haynes to join us too. I haven't seen her in weeks since she went to Japan for a while.
i'm not sure if this shirt under her bikini top is something she learned in Japan but just had to take a photo.
oh, she brought me coffee since she knew i only had less than an hour sleep the night before. thanks Joy! i think you are great even tho you dress funny.
We drove by Makpu'u and the waves were firing! too bad we can't surf there till 5pm.
we ended up at Ermas and somehow everyone came together there. Kylen & Cole Yamakawa, Isaiah, Josh & Seth Moniz, Gen Asano, Kaito Kino and others all ended up there.
Just another great day in paradise!
But wait, one more quick story.
But wait, one more quick story. I was going to take Kaito home but the boys stayed out late and Jenna had to be home so Kylen told me he can take Kaito.
when the girls and i were leaving, we hid Kaito's stuff on top of Kylen's truck's tire. the girls and i figured the boys will see them.
well... NO! i got a call from Kaito using Kylen's phone asking me where we can meet up to grab his stuff. What?!?!
i told him where i put his stuff he started freaking out cuz his brand new phone was in there and most likely they ran over it!
they had to drive back and found nice tire mark on Kaito's shirt, shorts, and a hat... We got lucky cuz the tire missed the phone!
from now on i'm going to make kids paddle in and transfer their own stuff into different cars.
Kaz
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