You probably know about one of the rules i have in my car, aka Kaz's Surf Shuttle. If you leave your rubbish, you need to eat what you left in my car OR do a 30 minutes beach cleanup when we get to the beach.
well, it was Ezekiel "Zeke" Lau's turn today. He bought a Spam Musubi Saturday morning but only ate half of it and left it in my car. Yesterday, Monday, i picked him up to go surf so he had to make a decision... eat 3 days old Spam musubi or do the beach cleanup.
I finally got to surf again today! i was at home all day working on my computer and i was so tired of it so i drove down to the beach for a quick session.
The waves were good! actually it was too good for me to be surfing so i grabbed my camera and went shot Kaulana Apo right before i lost the day light.
Kaulana was ripping out there as always. He's one of the groms who you need to remember cuz he's going to be huge in the industry!
When people come surf for the first time in Hawaii, i always tell them not to stand up on the reefs when they fall. it's not the reefs that's going to hurt, it's vana (sea urchins)!
You don't want to step on one of these! it's rare you get just one or two thorns, usually you get like 50 thorns in your foot. those thorns release venom too so it's super painful. the worst part is, when you try to pull them out, they break off! So you need to cut your skin and flesh open around to ply them out. in some cases you need to go to the hospital to take care of your foot.
so be careful and DO NOT stand on the reefs!
I felt like a bait for sharks in the water once it was getting dark so i was done shooting in about 20 minutes. ha ha.
at least i got surf today!
Kaz
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