Another great day

Another great day today. i woke up early and took care of some paper work stuff i hate to do. things were piling up so it was about time i took care of them before i get too over whelmed.

i hit the beach after a morning of doing things i don't like to reward myself. the waves got lot smaller but still fun! there were about 20 people out at my spot when i got there but everyone went in at the same time leaving just 3 people at the break. i was super stoked!

after a few hours of surfing i was tired and hungry so it was time to go in. when i got to the parking lot kevin was cooking up some grinds! (1st photo) some BBQ beef and chili and rice!! i got my chair out and just cruised with my friends (2nd photo) while enjoying some ono food.

(3rd photo) this is He'eNalu. he's one of the kids who hangout and surf with me at the beach. don't let his haole looks fool you, he got some hawaiian in him and he speaks hawaiian too. i've been surfing with him for about 3 years now and he's surfing's looking solid these days. i made a mistake of telling him that he can drop in on me when i first met him and now he drops in on me all the time even after 3 years... ha ha he's always stoked to be surfing (no matter the size or condition of the waves) and makes me realize why i love the sport so much. it's all about just being out there in the ocean and having fun!